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I decided to do another Model A crankshaft / Model T block project. It's taking time but coming along. Here are some photos of the process.
Here is the first problem. The A crank is on the left, a T crank is on the right.
The second problem is the block.
Front and Rear Mains are too long.
Part one of the solution. Shorten the crank. Note the square end.
Shortened A crank sitting on shortened mains next to the old T crank.
There is that square end again, next to a big chunk of 4140 that will form the new flange.
Here's the explanation. If you look closely you can see that a square hole was drilled into the new flange. The back side of this was welded. This prevents the new flange from sliding or twisting and breaking off - a common problem for these conversions in the past.
The crankshaft was trued up, re-ground to an undersized number that I've already forgotten (1.600" I think) and then balanced.
The finished crankshaft sitting in the block after the mains were "hogged out" to the proper size
Custom caps were purchased and then babbitted here.
New babbitt was poured into the block. I got burned pretty good this time and didn't think to take photos.
This is what the rough babbitt looks like, right out of the molds.
Here is the line boring jig after line boring the mains.
It's a crappy photo, but the mains are done, the block is back in a stand and lapping / polishing can begin.
Done, cleaned, and oiled.
The crankshaft in the block, awaiting a new owner and some more parts.
To finish this engine it will need the usual boring / decking / new valves, etc.. It will also need stock Model A rods and custom pistons (Chaffins has them). The pan will have to be fitted, a four dip pan will need a spacer plate and dimples in the side so the crankshaft will clear. I'm told a three dipper works without the spacer plate, I have not tried it yet.
A blast from the past:
A crank and rod to the left, T stuff to the right.
This shows the aluminum spacer on the bottom of the pan.
The spacer and the dimples.