Gen III Antique Auto
Antique Automobile Restoration Services
This was published in the Tin Lizzie Chatter's January 2008 issue, it's the same car that is on the video page here idling.
About a year or so ago I had a car in the garage here owned by Bill Scheffler from down in CT. I was hired to "make it run again". When I pressed him for details I was told to "do it like you'd do your own car." So I did. I'm not going to bore you with the little details of what I did to the motor, but I would like to share an overview with you, and show you some of the highlights of this car, because it had an interesting option installed in it and probably an even more interesting history.
If you look close you can see that this had a "Good Night Sleeper" camper conversion done to it way back when. The back seat was cut out and hinged. Where the repair plate has been riveted on is where the latch used to be. The front seat laid back on swing out legs, and there was a filler panel that covered up the pedals. Bill told me that when he bought the car, it came with side curtains that had bug screens instead of plastic.
You're looking at an engine we rebuilt idling, with less than three minutes of run time.
It was fired up and left it idling while I ran in to get the camera.
Notice that the car is not shaking at all. Does yours run this good?
This is how the car looks today.
Good Night Sleeper Fittings - a partial reprint of original instructions
The Good-Night sleeper consists of a full set of parts, including seat back, right and left side sections, foot rest, seat back supports, etc., as shown in cut no.1. These parts fit the Ford touring cars made since August 1, 1916, with engine numbers below 1,300,000. However, the recent Ford bodies, with slanting windshields and one man tops are slightly different, and some changes may be necessary.
It is claimed that these parts can be installed in a couple of hours by the use of a few simple tools. After removing the seat cushion, remove the upholstery from the front seat back. This is just a matter of pulling out the tacks, upholstery, nails, and trimming. The piece marked "A" in Cut no2. is saved, to be replaced later.
Now unscrew the fasteners, marked "B" in Cut no2. and lift out the springs, together with the card board back. Remove the wood strips marked "C", and unscrew the side rails "D". Also remove the side rail wooden strips marked "E" (Also marked "J" in cut no 6.)
Remove the bolts "F" cut no 2., holding the top irons. Chisel off three rivet heads at "G" in cut no 6. Drive out these rivets. Next remove metal strips "H" from cut no.6 And drive these bolts out far enough to allow the removal of the seat back metal panel. After lifting out panel, drive back the carriage bolts and replace the nuts. All is now ready for the installation of the Good-Night equipment, as shown in the first cut.
The installation is started by attaching the draw sticks, which are properly marked to indicate their correct positions, to the metal flange along the top of the arm rest, as shown in cut no.6. In some Ford bodies, this flange is a continuation of the metal side of the body. And in others, it is a separate strip, fastened to the top of the body, as shown in the illustration. If necessary, this metal flange can be unscrewed and placed an inch or so to the rear, in order to secure proper alignment when the side section is attached.
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